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11. Atapuerca

“Is it me, or can you hear banjos too?” I muttered. “Yup. This place is scary.”

10. Belorado

As was our wont, we left the town before daybreak. It was cold. I know that, because Stu told me 138 times in the first fifteen minutes, (he was hungry too), and because even I was a mite chilly.

9. Santo Domingo de la Calzada

“For future reference, at the end of a long day and a fine dinner, the answer to the question “shall we have something else?”, is never, ever, “a magnum of finca de la Imperatrice, my good man.”

8. Nájera

Stu awaited us at the top. He stood, contemplating a hand-drawn sign. “There is no way to happiness - happiness IS the Way!” He arched an eyebrow and rolled his tongue behind his lower lip.

7. Camino II: Los Arcos to Logroño

A palatable glass of wine to while away the hour or two before the flight. I had forgotten how badly a business class lounge regards a man in hiking gear and a baseball cap. I fear the monocle is not winning them over.”

6. Los Arcos

Famed, because it’s a fountain of free wine. Seriously. It is. The theory is that the pilgrim fills their scallop shell, and sips appreciatively.

On camino - 2016

20km into a day, hot, weary and thirsty, the sound of a bicycle bell behind can elicit violence from the most passive of pilgrims.

4. Puente la Reina

The residents of Pamplona were, quite sensibly, in bed. There was very little traffic. All the more shocking then, that the only two cars on the road contrived to collide spectacularly.
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